The Friulana: How a traditional Slipper Became Venice's Quiet Icon

By Gondolina Editorial Team

VENICE, Italy — As you walk through the cobble-stone avenues of Venice, you'll notice people wearing soft velveteen slippers in burgundy, navy blue and black - all silently gliding along the centuries-old paving stones as if this were something they had done so many times before.

But the furlana (known in the local language as "friulana") did not originate in a designer studio; rather, it came from the mountains of Friuli. Here is the documented history of a shoe that began as a humble peasant's product and became a symbol of understated luxury. More than one hundred years later, it still portrays something that is now increasingly rare - craftsmanship that is meant to last.

A Solution Born of Scarcity

The historic records show that the furlana came into being during the 19th century, however the stories from the area, Friuli-Venezia Giulia suggest that this style of shoe has existed before this time. The ladies of Friuli created their own utilitarian footwear out of whatever was available to them during a time of economic difficulty according to the testimonies given to various artisan Cultural Kulture archives of the district.

• Outer Material: Recycled Textiles such as old velvet dresses, old shirts, and old linens from the home.

• Inner/Lining: Jute sacks which were used to carry seeds and have a reputation for warmth and insulation.

• Sole: Cut from discarded bike tires (waterproof/ flexible with excellent gripping ability).

Long before sustainability was commercially defined, the furlana represented sustainable principles of: practicality, durability, and respect for materials. Each pair of furlanes was hand stitched. It was a quiet act of resistance from a mother to her daughter.

Migration and Adoption: From Hills to Canals.

Friulian workers who sought employment in Venice as artisans, dock laborers and water carriers brought their traditional furlane with them. Initially these slippers were sold informally; vendors carried baskets of slippers and sold them from house to house or in busy market places.

The introduction of a permanent stall at the base of the rialto bridge in Sotoportego dei Oresi (the historical trade street for goldsmiths), by the venetian government, marked a pivotal turning point from which the furlana began to thrive as recorded in archives about Venetian culture.

Gondoliers in venice took to wearing furlane for practical reasons rather than stylistic ones. According to historical records, two factors led to the adoption of the furlana: safety and preservation. The recycled rubber sole had excellent grip on wet, uneven surfaces, which was important for those who had to balance themselves on the back of a gondola. The softer rubberical sole did not scratch and hurt the lacquered wood and the customary black paint of the gondola - something that hard leather soles tend to do.

With this practical footwear providing such a useful function, the furlana turned into an unofficial uniform for one of the most recognized professions in Venice.

From Function to Refinement: A Quiet Transformation

In the years following its inception, the furlana's role within society changed significantly. Once simply considered a working-class shoe, it evolved into a shoe that was desirable to many due to its combination of durability and discretion. 

According to oral histories passed down through Venetian families, local nobility had an appreciation for the furlana's ability to allow them to move about their palazzos quietly or leave private events without drawing attention.

By the early 20th century, artists, authors, and style-conscious individuals were all wearing furlanas due to their understated elegance and comfortability all day long. 

The Contemporary Furlana: Verified Quiet Luxury

The furlana is continuing to flourish today in a very fleeting, throwaway world—not simply due to its nostalgia but also due to the decision of those who choose to wear them based on the quality of their craftsmanship and the values that those items represent.

Increasingly recognized by fashion editors around the globe, the silhouette is being celebrated in the international fashion press as an example of "sustainable elegance." For example, Tatler has dubbed it “the most fashionable shoe of summer 2023," while Vogue has regularly featured the furlana for its origins in circular design through use of repurposed fabrics, flexible rubber soles, and handmade construction — all of which were in place prior to the adoption of “slow fashion” as a term.

Today's shift to quiet luxury has only enhanced the furlana's stature. The refined consumer today is focused on authenticity vs. logos and looking longer-term rather than towards just one seasonal trend.

Why This History Matters Now

The furlana has traveled far from its roots in the hills of Friuli to become an iconic symbol around the world; however, how we wear and celebrate them has changed over time. Still, the idea behind choosing to wear these shoes comes from the same resourcefulness that inspired the original design (using rubber tires as soles).

The craftsmanship involved in making each pair of shoes creates an emotional connection between the creator and the wearer. An aspect of this connection is not only through a shared connection to past generations of women who created something beautiful out of very little, but also because of how they are made — by hand — and the way that each stitch connects the two people through time.

Quiet confidence continues. While many of the brands that we see today use bright colors and big logos/substantial branding for their marketing, the furlana does not require these features. Instead, the only thing that these shoes need to be successful is the ability to be “felt” by the feet wearing them.

By selecting a furlana to wear, we are participating in a story that has been told over many years. It is a story that speaks to the principles of adaptability, resilience and understated beauty.

At Gondolina, it is important to preserve this heritage by producing all of their shoes using traditional methods in Friuli, using only high-quality materials that are ethically sourced and traceable. Each pair of shoes that they produce is designed to be used, cherished, and passed on to future generations, rather than discarded due to seasonal fashion trends.